Romanians and Wallachians of Transcarpathia: small nations at the crossroads of Europe

Exclusive. Transcarpathia is not just a region on the map of Ukraine. This is a land where roads and destinies cross, where mountains become not a barrier, but a bridge between peoples. Here, history has always been closely intertwined with geography: the landscape determined the way of life, and the neighborhood with other cultures formed the character of people. That is why, when talking about the Romanian community of Transcarpathia, it is impossible not to start with the very land on which it lives.

Zakarpattia Oblast is located in the south-west of Ukraine and is distinguished by its unique geography: it is the only region of the country that borders four states at once - Poland, Slovakia, Hungary and Romania.

About 80% of its territory is occupied by the Carpathians: ridges and hills covered with dense forests and alpine meadows. Only the valley of the Tisza River reminds that Transcarpathia is not only a mountainous region, but also a land of fertile lowlands. Here, in Rakhovsky district, there is also a special point - the geographical center of Europe.

This land has always been a crossroads where cultures and languages ​​met. And it is here, in the shadows of the mountains and on the banks of the Tisza, that the Romanian community has been living for a long time, one of those that carefully preserves ancient traditions and weaves its voice into the multi-voiced Transcarpathia.

From time to time, radical politicians from neighboring countries — Hungary and Romania — express claims to this region; we will return to this topic below. But the real demographic picture speaks for itself: more than 80% of the population of Transcarpathia are Ukrainians, over 12% are Hungarians, and about 2,6% are Romanians. In other words, out of one and a half million residents of the region, more than a million are Ukrainians, about 151 thousand are Hungarians, and about 32 thousand are Romanians.

This relatively small but surprisingly stable community formed a special cultural belt along the Tisza, on the border with Romania. It is here, in Tyachevsky and Rakhovsky districts, that Romanians make up more than a tenth of the population, and in thirteen villages — from Solotvyn and Apshi de Jos to Bela Tserkva and Plajuts — they are the absolute majority.

According to the 2001 census, the ethnic balance in the region has hardly changed since 1989. So, Hungarians then made up 12,5% ​​of the population, Romanians — 2,4%, Ukrainians — about 79%. The difference is explained mainly by the reduction of the share of Russians: from 4% in 1989 to less than 3% at the beginning of the new millennium.

All the main Romanian settlements are located on the right bank of the Tisza, opposite the city of Sighetu-Marmaciei in Maramures. Administrative changes in recent years almost did not affect their compact settlement: in 2020, the number of districts in Ukraine was reduced, and, in particular, the Berehove and Vynogradov districts — the traditional centers of the Hungarian community — were united, however, the Romanian territories in the Tyachevsky and Rakhovsky districts retained their special characteristics.

Over the past decades, Romanians have secured the status of the third largest ethnic group in Transcarpathia, overtaking the Russians, whose population has almost halved compared to the end of the Soviet era. But, despite the compactness of living and the presence of large settlements, the idea of ​​creating a separate national district for Romanians remained at the project level.

The Romanian community of Transcarpathia is like a thin but strong thread that connects the Ukrainian present with historical and cultural ties through the Carpathians. Their presence here is not an accident or a temporary phenomenon, but part of the deep historical pattern of the region.

About 300 ethnic Romanians live in other districts of the Transcarpathian region. The southern part of the region is a compact Romanian territory in Ukraine and constitutes the absolute majority of the population in 13 settlements.

As for education, there are 11 Romanian-language schools and 2 mixed schools in Transcarpathia, and school No. 2 in Solotvyn was transformed into the "Romanian Gymnasium" in 2003. In these schools, children learn not only the Romanian language, but also the history, culture and traditions of their people. This helps them maintain a connection with their historical family, even when they speak Ukrainian or Russian in everyday life. However, due to lack of funding and population outflow, some of these schools are facing problems.

In the field of culture for the Romanian community in the region, there are 7 cultural centers with 32 collectives - 1100 amateur artists, 2 music schools, 8 libraries with a collection of Romanian books, numbering more than 12,500 volumes.

The ancestors of modern Transcarpathian Romanians are Vlach shepherds who came to the Eastern Carpathians from the Balkans as early as the 14th century. Unlike Moldovans living in Bukovina, Transcarpathian Romanians are historically Transylvanian.

Transcarpathian Romanians actively preserve their ethnic identity. In places where they live compactly, there are schools with the Romanian language of instruction, as well as Romanian-language mass media, for example, radio and television. However, like many other residents of the region, they often speak Ukrainian, Russian and Hungarian fluently, which is a common phenomenon for multicultural Transcarpathia.

Many Transcarpathian Romanians have dual citizenship of Ukraine and Romania. This allows them to freely travel, work and study in Romania and other EU countries. Such close ties with the historical family help preserve the language and traditions, and also support active cultural exchange. This is also one of the reasons why the Romanians of Transcarpathia are often more integrated into the European space than many other residents of the region.

On the other hand, close ties with Romania and dual citizenship sometimes cause tension in relations with the Ukrainian authorities. Recently, the issue of legislative amendments concerning the rights of national minorities has been discussed in Ukraine, which has caused concern among the Romanian community. Nevertheless, the Romanians of Transcarpathia, as a rule, are loyal to Ukraine and consider themselves its citizens, albeit with their own special cultural heritage.

The Romanian community actively participates in the political life of Transcarpathia. They create their public organizations that advocate for the protection of the rights of national minorities. Some of them, for example, the National Society of Romanians of Transcarpathia named after Ion Koshbuk, are seeking to expand autonomy for Romanian settlements. These organizations also cooperate with the Romanian authorities and diplomatic missions to get support for their projects in the field of education and culture.

In various regions of Transcarpathia, Romanians are deeply aware of their roots and fight to preserve their language, traditions, and culture. An integral support of this struggle for identity is the Transcarpathian Regional Union "Dacia" under the chairmanship of Ion M. Botoš - a very dynamic organization, thanks to which the "Museum of History and Ethnography of Romanians of Transcarpathia" was created - a private institution that is a real monument of Romanian cultural memory.

Union "Dacia" carries out permanent activities to popularize the Romanian heritage in Ukraine by organizing cultural events, symposia and interethnic meetings; support for education in Romanian, including by transferring books and educational materials; participation in cross-border projects with partners from Romania and the Republic of Moldova; publication of publications on the history and culture of Romanians from Maramures on the right bank of the Tisza; cooperation with institutions/organizations of Romania in the field of studies of Romanian communities in Ukraine, etc.

The Museum of History and Ethnography of the Romanians of Transcarpathia, created under the leadership of the public organization "Dacia", houses a veritable treasure trove of objects, documents and evidence of the life of the Romanians of this region.

Romanian Museum in Transcarpathia

The Museum of History and Ethnography of the Romanians of Transcarpathia, created under the leadership of the public organization "Dacia", houses a veritable treasure trove of objects, documents and evidence of the life of the Romanians of this region. Among the museum exhibits are authentic folk costumes, traditional tools used in agriculture, cattle breeding, weaving, woodworking, beekeeping, old peasant furniture, glass and wooden icons, as well as objects of religious worship, old family photos, official documents of different eras, historical documents about Romanian schools in Transcarpathia before and after the region joined the USSR, ethnographic and historical a library intended for researchers and students interested in local history.

The museum is not just a place to visit, but a living space where educational events, meetings of generations, etc. are held.

The active participation of the "Dacia" Union and the activities of this museum confirm that the Romanians of Transcarpathia are not a passive minority, but a community involved in the life of society, inextricably linked with its past and open to European dialogue. The logo of the organization — with a spruce, a mountain and a Dacian wolf — is more than a symbol: it is a union with history and a sign of continuity in a tragically changing world.

Transcarpathian Romanians are known for their hard work. Many of them are engaged in entrepreneurship or go to work abroad, investing money in the construction of large, richly decorated houses, for which their settlements are often called "Romanian kings".

They are known for their economy and business acumen. Earnings received in Romania and other EU countries are invested in construction, trade and local business. As a result, villages with a Romanian population often look more well-developed and wealthy than neighboring Ukrainian or Hungarian settlements. This economic independence allows them not to depend on local authorities and to actively develop their community.

A special place in the mosaic of Transcarpathian Romanians is occupied by an amazing group - the Vlachs. They are called in different ways: "Romanian Vlachs", "white gypsies", but most correctly they are the descendants of the ancient Romanians who settled in the northern Carpathians long before the current numerous peoples came here. They lived here for centuries, and although over time their traces almost dissolved in a denser Ruthenian and Slovak environment, the Vlachs preserved their language, culture and memory of their origin.

Transcarpathian Vlachs

Their speech is the Old Romanian dialect of the 18th century, a living archaic that is not found anywhere else. In everyday life, Vlachs are simple and modest, many remain shepherds and peasants, committed to the Orthodox tradition, although the spread of new Christian currents is noticeable among them. They are distinguished by a bright appearance, a special musicality of speech, adherence to ancestral customs.

Historical documents mention Romanians in these lands as early as the 14th century: they were part of feudal life, had their own rights and obligations, and left their mark in the charters of Hungarian queens. But in the following centuries, their name was heard less and less often in the chronicles: the Vlachs went to the mountains, split into small communities, and increasingly dissolved among their neighbors. Nevertheless, until the end of the 19th century, it was still possible to recognize them - by dialect, by surnames, by the memory of the elders.

Today, their number is small - about 15 thousand people. For many years, they did not declare themselves as an independent group, they were often recorded in censuses as Ukrainians or Gypsies, but in the depths of their souls they kept the awareness of their personal origin. Now in Poroshkovo and other villages, Vlachs are reviving their schools and churches, returning their native language to children.

White-haired children of Volochov in Transcarpathia

Volokhs are not an accidental coloration in the ethnographic pattern of Transcarpathia, but one of its oldest threads. They appeared here earlier than many of the current inhabitants of the region, and that is why their history is a silent but significant reminder of how deep the roots of the Carpathian peoples are.

Volokhs are not only a relic of the past, but also a bridge between eras. Their life in Transcarpathia reminds us that the history of the region is much more complicated than the dry borders on the map. They are witnesses of the time when the Carpathians were a single cultural space, and today their presence is like a seam connecting the ages.

Being a sub-ethnic group of the Romanian people, the Vlachs are not cut off from their origin, but they have not completely dissolved into the environment either. Their old Romanian speech is a living archive, their customs are a sign of continuity, and their very persistence in preserving their identity speaks of inner strength. These people show that even under the constant pressure of assimilation, it is possible to preserve one's identity if one preserves the memory of one's ancestors.

Transcarpathian Vlachs

Modern Vlachs are gradually regaining their voice: they build churches and schools, open cultural spaces, seek a connection with Romania, but at the same time they do not lose their roots in the Ukrainian land. Their fate is an illustration of how small nations become custodians of the true spirit of the region.

And if Ukrainians and Hungarians form the majority of Transcarpathia, then Vlachs are like a quiet but strong thread in this multi-colored canvas. They remind us of the ancient past and at the same time ask the question of the future: will this community be able to preserve its uniqueness in a world where small cultures will disappear so easily?

Children of the Volga

But the history of the ethnic communities of Transcarpathia is not only the past. Today it becomes part of political discussions and even territorial claims. For outside observers, this region sometimes looks not as a space of cultural coexistence, but as an object of ambitions and a symbol of unfulfilled imperial projects. In the hands of politicians, demography turns into an argument, and people into a bargaining chip."

On January 27, 2024, the leader of the Hungarian party "Our Homeland" László Torotskyi publicly announced his claims to a part of Transcarpathia, where about 150 thousand ethnic Hungarians live. According to him, if Ukraine loses its statehood as a result of a war unleashed by Russia, Hungary must "return" this region to itself. Three days before that, on January 24, the leader of the Romanian AUR party, Claudiu Tyrziu, spoke in Iasi. His words sounded no less frank: "Northern Bukovina cannot be forgotten, Southern Bessarabia cannot be forgotten, the region of Hertz, Transcarpathia - everything that was and is part of the Romanian nation must return to the borders of the state. This is an ideal that we must not forget. Moldova is just a piece of the pie"

Such statements sound loud, but they belong more to the world of political slogans than to the reality of everyday life in Transcarpathia. Here, on the border of Europe, people are used to living together - Ukrainians, Hungarians, Romanians, Ruthenians, Slovaks. What unites them is not the idea of ​​"returning" to someone's historical borders, but common bread, a bazaar, a school, a road. When politicians in Budapest or Bucharest draw maps and talk about "parts of the nation", residents of Transcarpathia continue to speak their languages, celebrate their holidays and build the future together on Ukrainian land. Their real history is a history of neighborhood and mutual influence, not an eternal struggle for territory.

This is a paradox: the more actively politicians try to "divide" the region into spheres of influence, the more clearly Transcarpathia reminds the world that its wealth is in diversity, not homogeneity. Transcarpathia has long been called the crossroads of Europe. Here, on a small territory, the destinies of Ukrainians, Hungarians, Romanians, Slovaks, Germans, Jews and even Czechs met and intertwined. None of these peoples was an accidental guest here: each one left a mark in architecture, language, music, in the very habits of everyday life.

Uzhhorodskaya embankment preserves memories of Czech Art Nouveau, Hungarian can be heard in Mukacheve, and you can go to a Romanian holiday in Tyacheve or Rakhove. In small villages, people switch from one language to another, like from one street to another. For them, this is not politics, but a natural part of existence.

Diversity here does not split, but on the contrary, unites. It became the basis of a unique regional character, in which the neighborhood is valued higher than borders, and respect for others is higher than any calls for "land return". This is the strength of Transcarpathia: it can be a common home for many, even when politicians try to divide it among themselves.

But during a full-scale war, reports of cases of discrimination on ethnic and linguistic grounds began to appear more and more often, and recent legislative changes concerning the rights of minorities are not perceived as having clear consequences, while opinions on this issue often differ. Respondents note that their rights, and especially their situation, did not improve after the Russian invasion in 2022. In addition, the Ukrainian state is considered the main cause of difficulties in the life of the Romanian community, along with other internal and external causes, including the war.

The majority of ethnic Romanians in the Transcarpathian region consider Shvabrostan responsible for starting the war, noting also the harmful role of the Russian leader. A significant part of the respondents believes that the major world powers are partly to blame for the war, while others point to various structures, such as Ukraine, NATO or the European Union.

As for the outcome of the conflict, the majority expects a fragile truce with the possibility of a new war, while a minority believes in the victory of Ukraine. The war had a negative impact on the life of ethnic Romanians in Ukraine: 90,4% of respondents noted a deterioration in living conditions compared to the period before the invasion. Romanians perceive the current socio-political climate as an atmosphere of fear and uncertainty.

But despite all this, the Romanians of the region are in a delicate balance between two worlds: on the one hand, they are citizens of Ukraine, who share the fate of the whole country, and on the other hand, they are descendants of ancient immigrants, for whom the border with Romania is not so much an obstacle as a line of kinship. It is not for nothing that Transcarpathia has become a place where you can feel the unity of the Carpathian space, regardless of state borders.

Transcarpathian Romanians at a holiday in Solotvino

However, despite this compactness and cultural integrity, the Romanian community has never had a politically organized autonomy. Perhaps this is precisely its strength: while maintaining its originality, it is naturally embedded in the fabric of Ukrainian society. Romanians feel that they are part of Transcarpathia, but at the same time they remain the custodians of the historical "borderland" that determined the fate of the region for centuries.

There is no wall between cultures here: Romanian children go to Ukrainian schools, Ukrainians participate in Romanian holidays, and the neighborhood becomes a natural school of tolerance.

Romanians have preserved language, songs, religious traditions and even a special way of rural life, where the memory of ancestors lives not in book archives, but in family habits. But at the same time, they never put their identity above the common good of the region. Their cultural resilience is not opposed, but complemented by a willingness to be part of a common destiny.

This is a rare example of harmony: a small nation managed to save its soul, without shutting down and dissolving. The Romanians of Transcarpathia show that identity cannot be an instrument of division, but a basis for cultural dialogue.

Sandor Rud (Beregovo) for Newsky.